Scotland—A Country of Beauty and Friendliness

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By Mike DuBose and Debra DuBose with Blake DuBose

Both Debra and I can trace our ancestry back to Scotland, with members of my family coming from the MacDonald clan and hers from the Ferguson clan. When we got the opportunity to visit, it was an interesting opportunity to experience the land of our forebears. What we found during our trip was that Scotland is not only a land of great natural beauty, but also a friendly population proud of their country’s rich history. We highly recommend visiting at least once in your lifetime!

When to Visit

Scotland’s high season for tourism is June to August of each year, and this is also when prices are at their highest. We recommend visiting Scotland in either May or June for the best weather (though it can sometimes be unpredictable) with lower crowds. September, when crowds decrease and temperatures are still mild, is also a good month to visit. On our trip, we had a complete tour of Scotland over eight days, but if we do it again, we will spend three nights in Edinburgh, which is filled with history.

Scotland has a cool climate, and the high and low temperatures for a 24-hour period may be nearly the same. In the summer, it may reach 80 degrees Fahrenheit; if you’re planning on visiting, note that few lodgings have air conditioning. (Also, when checking weather reports or conducting other research, remember that the country uses degrees Celsius to measure temperatures, the American system to measure mileage, and the metric system to measure liquids.) The weather gets very cold in the winter, and snow is common. In the mountainous regions, we saw pole markers that expand three feet in height to show drivers where the road is located when snow covers the ground!

Culture

The Scots we met in our travels were very friendly people, and of course we enjoyed their famous way of speaking, including their goodbye of “Cheers!” Everyone in Scotland speaks English, and smaller numbers also speak Scottish Gaelic, a language related to Irish Gaelic. Many place names, such as Cairn Gorm (“blue or green hill”) are derived from this language.

Scotland’s overall crime rate is low, but the cost of living is relatively high. The society is fairly liberal, with many social support networks in place (such as universal healthcare) funded by taxes like the value added tax (VAT). Our guide informed us that it was very difficult to find a gun in Scotland; even some police do not have them. There is a national minimum wage of roughly 7.20 euros per hour (about $8 US), which attracts many workers from other countries like Poland.

Terrain and Industry

Scotland has a population of about 5 million people. Most of its citizens live in the largest cities of Edinburgh and Glasgow and in the central belt of the country. One can ride from coast to coast in about four hours. (If you’re planning a scenic road trip, note that sometimes you can ride for hours and see only hills, grassy slopes, and sheep—you’ll want to select your route carefully!) Since so much of Scotland borders or is close to the ocean, you can get great seafood there, especially in places like Edinburgh.

Scotland was formed by ancient volcanic activity (there is an inactive volcano in Edinburgh) and its hills and mountains were carved by ancient, now-melted glaciers. The country is located on a major fault line, but experiences few earthquakes other than the occasional 2.0 on the Richter scale. The many lakes carved by glaciers are referred to as “lochs,” one of which is Loch Ness, where the famous monster supposedly lives. Unfortunately, we were unable to claim the prize money that British bookmaker (bookie) William Hill offers each year for the best picture of old Nessie!

Scotland’s countryside is a beautiful green, with patches of purple heather scattered throughout. Much of the land is used as grazing land for two of its predominant products: sheep and long-haired Highland “coos” (cows). The northwestern area of the island, called the Scottish Highlands, is very rugged and mountainous. Water rushes down from elevated areas, forming beautiful waterfalls and also creating hydroelectric power. Driving through the Highlands, you can also see many turbines harnessing wind for the same reason. Scotland is a hiker’s paradise, and you can see hundreds of people hiking or biking along the beautiful trails. Due to the combination of hilly terrain and snow, skiing is also popular in the Highlands during the winter.

Farming, hunting, and fishing for salmon, lobster, or trout are all major industries. Because of the forestry industry, many trees have been felled in Scotland; however, the Scottish environmentalists are heavily involved in reforestation. In fact, because Scots are so protective of the nation’s beautiful environment, many cell phone towers are disguised as trees. It was humorous to see a steel pole going up in the air with artificial green hanging from it at the top!

Granite is also a plentiful resource and the same polished granite that is expensive in the US is cheap in Scotland. We once saw the façade of an entire grocery store made of the inexpensive resource. Because the Scottish economy is primarily driven by tourism and small businesses, however, we saw few heavy production factories.

History

Scotland is a modern nation that clings to and fiercely defends its past, especially since tourism is one of the predominant industries there. Ruins dot the countryside, including numerous Neolithic, Bronze, and Iron Age sites as well as more recent (but still centuries-old) castles and monasteries. The oldest building in Edinburgh, Scotland’s capital, is a small chapel in the Edinburgh Castle complex that was built in the 12th century. To preserve the nation’s historic feel, in many areas throughout Scotland, new structures must be built to blend in with historic buildings—on our trip, we viewed a relatively new hotel that looked to have been erected in the 17th century.

Historically, Scotland was populated by clans, different families that had their own mottos, lands, and chiefs. Each chief lived in a castle, many of which still stand today. Castles usually were strategically located on highly defendable hills and were surrounded with water to make their defenses virtually invincible. The families that made up the clan lived nearby. They vowed to fight for the chief, who in turn protected his people.

Scotland’s clans either pledged allegiance to the English king or banded together with other clans to fight the king and loyalists. Typically, Highland clans tended to war against the king, while those located in the Lowlands (closer to the border with England) were more likely to support the English. In ancient times, clans also waged war against each other. In one situation, a clan killed two sons of another clan’s chief, who in turn killed and beheaded the seven sons of the first clan’s chief. We stopped to see a monument to the seven brothers and took a picture of the Seven Heads grocery store, which is located across from the site of the massacre.

Conflict with the English is a key part of Scottish history. There have been many bloody battles fought between the Scottish, who wanted their country separate from England, and the English, who claimed the rights to Scotland, over the course of centuries. One of the greatest Scottish fighters was William Wallace, known as Braveheart, who was portrayed by Mel Gibson in a 1995 movie. He led the Scots against the English (who were led by King Edward I) during the First War of Scottish Independence in the 13th century AD. The English hated Braveheart so much that they executed him and hung the pieces of his body in the town square to scare the Scots who opposed English rule.

In more recent times, the Jacobite Rebellions (which sought to place a Catholic Stuart monarch on the throne of Great Britain rather than Protestants William and Mary and the Hanoverian rulers) rocked the country in 1715 and 1745. After the Jacobites were badly beaten at the Battle of Culloden in 1746, their hopes for a Stuart Restoration were dashed, and they endured punishment from the English. The Scottish Gaelic language and other cultural practices of the Highlands were suppressed as part of the punishment and to keep the Highlanders from working together to rebel again. During these times, many Scots relocated to the United States to start their lives over in a new country.

The debate over Scottish Independence continues today, although non-violently. A referendum was held in 2014 to decide whether Scotland should become independent from the rest of the United Kingdom. Although 55% of voters said no and 45% voted yes, some Scots believe that they will eventually split off into their own nation, especially since England voted to leave the European Union in 2016 (Scotland voted to stay).

Dining

American brands like McDonalds, Burger King, and Subway can all be found in Scotland, alongside small mom-and-pop restaurants selling fish and chips and meat pies. Each small town we saw had an average-sized grocery store, and it was in one of these that we found a bag of ice—a rarity that you don’t see in restaurants unless you specifically ask for it!

Some dishes, like haggis—which is made up of sheep offal, seasoning, and fillers like oatmeal cooked inside a sheep’s stomach—are unique to Scotland! We couldn’t bring ourselves to try the black pudding, which is made of animal blood and fillers like oats and barley. However, other aspects of the “Scottish breakfast,” like fried eggs and sausage, were familiar and very good! Many bed and breakfasts also offer homemade jams and freshly baked bread.

Some alcohol makers like Smirnoff are making headway into the country; however, if you have a special spirit that you like, pack some extra bottles in protective containers in your checked luggage since some types (like Canadian brands) are not readily available. Scotch whisky is very popular in Scotland and there are many different types (for example, those made near the northern coast tend to have a smokier flavor). There are tours available to some of the many distilleries; we recommend private or small-group tours with a driver so you can sample as much as you’d like!

Tipping is less common in Scotland than it is in America. If you receive outstanding service, you might consider leaving a ten percent tip. Service is also different in that, once you are served, you will need to ask if you need anything else. When shopping, if you are buying products that are subject to the value added tax, ask for a special signed receipt, which can be validated at the airport. You can receive a refund for a percentage of the tax if your total purchases exceed the minimum amount for refund.

Lodging

There are thousands of bed and breakfasts scattered throughout Scotland, especially in rural areas. To make extra money, these homeowners open their homes to visitors, and in smaller towns, bed and breakfasts may be the only places to stay (bigger cities, like Edinburgh and Inverness, have more hotel options). Be sure to ask if your hotel has an elevator when you are making your reservations. Two of ours didn’t, and some lodgings can have several stories!

There are seemingly endless variations of toilets and shower types in Scotland. Sometimes, you have to flip a switch to start the shower’s “instant hot water!” Most places did not have washcloths and the soap was small, so be prepared and take your own. All our lodgings had an iron and a hair dryer in the room (if you don’t see one in your hotel or B&B, ask the proprietor). One unfamiliar luxury was the heated towel racks—getting out of the shower to a warm towel was great!

Hotels and B&Bs are accredited through the Scottish Board of Tourism (www.visitscotland.com), which rates the facilities with up to five stars (outstanding). Of course, the four and five star facilities are the best! All that we stayed in were very clean and had great breakfasts (except for the black pudding, of course). The best and friendliest B&B we stayed in was the Brooklynn House in Grantown-on-Spey (see it at www.woodier.com). The owners are Alan and Silvia Woodier and you can contact them by e-mailing [email protected].

What to Pack

The greatest challenge that Scotland presents to traveling Americans is the voltage system. In America, we have the 110 volt system, whereas Europeans have the 220 volt system. Thus, no American appliances are compatible with Scottish electrical sockets. You will need an adapter to fit UK electrical sockets. The UK has a special three-pronged square adapter, unlike the rest of Europe, which has two round metal connections. You can purchase these at the airport in the country you are visiting or in advance online.

Typical dress in Scotland is very informal, and most anything goes. We found blue jeans, casual tops, and turtlenecks to be comfortable and accepted most places. If you go in the cooler months, you will want to bring a coat and layering options like sweaters and sweatshirts. Fortunately, because of the low humidity, you can wear outer layers twice to conserve space when packing. We rarely saw anyone in business or evening attire except in the larger cities when we saw business folks going to work. Make sure to bring comfortable, flat walking shoes, as many historic cities like Edinburgh are paved with bumpy cobblestones.

Currency

Currency in Scotland is in pounds sterling, not euros as in many other European nations. You can purchase British pounds from your bank before leaving America or when you arrive in Scotland (be sure to use cash, not credit cards, to charge your currency since your purchase will be treated as a cash advance). However, some international airport exchange companies charge as much as ten percent commission, so if you haven’t purchased currency in advance, it’s often best to only get as much as you need for a taxi, then find an ATM at your destination and use your debit card to withdraw funds.

Check with your bank before leaving the US to ensure that your credit and debit cards can be used in Europe. If your card has a chip and can be used as a debit card in grocery stores and at ATMs in America, chances are that it will work. Most kinds of credit cards are accepted in Scotland as well, but try to use one that does not charge extra fees for international use. Call your credit card company before you leave to let them know your dates of travel so that they don’t suspect fraudulent use and suspend your card.

Getting Around

The Scots have an excellent bus system in the larger cities, and they also have the famous double-decker open air tour buses. If you are staying in a large city and have not scheduled a tour, these double-decker buses are a great option. You simply buy a pass to ride them for a day (or multiple days) and can hop on or hop off any time you want. The buses visit most of the city’s major historical and cultural sites, so it’s an easy way to take in a lot of attractions without paying for multiple cabs!

For the greatest ease in traveling around, however, we recommend booking a private tour. Using a private guide was less stressful—we had an expert in the car with us, and we could just relax in the back seat while he chauffeured us around. Look for ratings on sites like TripAdvisor.com to find a highly-recommended guide.

Because of the high price of gas, nearly all cars we saw in Scotland were smaller, more gas-efficient models. Scottish automobiles have the steering wheels on the right and they drive on the opposite side of the road as drivers in the US. Everything that moves, such as escalators, follows suit. This goes back to ancient times, when a right-handed horseman could draw a sword hanging at his left side to repel an attacker approaching on the right side of the road.

If you choose to drive in Europe, you will need an International Driving Permit, which you can apply for through the American Automobile Association (AAA). Also, check to ensure that your insurance will cover your rental car. There are many wrecks in the UK when visiting tourists forget that they have to drive on the “wrong” side of the road! The road system itself is pretty good, although when we visited rural areas, there were single lane roads with pull-off areas every 100 feet to allow cars to pass.

The bottom line: Overall, Scotland is a wonderful, safe, and friendly country that we highly recommend visiting. Its beautiful scenery and friendly people made it one of our most enjoyable trips! For more travel advice and tips, including smart packing and other recommended destinations, please see the published articles section of www.mikedubose.com.

About the Authors:Together, we have logged more than 2 million flight miles over the world in the last 40 years. Our corporate and personal purpose is to “create opportunities to improve lives” by sharing our knowledge, research, experiences, successes, and mistakes. You can e-mail us at [email protected].

Mike DuBose received his graduate degree from the University of South Carolina and is the author of The Art of Building a Great Business. He has been in business since 1981 and is the owner of Research Associates, The Evaluation Group, Columbia Conference Center, and DuBose Fitness Center. Visit his nonprofit website www.mikedubose.com for a free copy of his book and additional business, travel, personal, and health articles written with Dr. Surb Guram, MD.

Debra DuBose has been married to Mike for 44 years and co-writes articles with him. She holds bachelor and graduate degrees from Winthrop University and Francis Marion University.

Blake DuBose graduated from Newberry College’s Schools of Business and Psychology and is president of DuBose Web Group (www.duboseweb.com).

Katie Beck serves as Director of Communications for the DuBose family of companies. She graduated from the USC School of Journalism and Honors College.

© Copyright 2016 by Mike DuBose—All Rights Reserved. You have permission and we encourage you to forward the full article to friends or colleagues and/or distribute it as part of personal or professional use, providing that the authors are credited. However, no part of this article may be altered or published in any other manner without the written consent of the authors. If you would like written approval to post this information on an appropriate website or to publish this information, please contact Katie Beck at [email protected].